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Food

Lassi, Kulfi & the Cold Things

Lassi in a clay kulhad, kulfi on the stick, kesar doodh in winter — the drinks and ices of the Jaipur street.

Jaipur drinks its lassi thick, sweet and from a clay kulhad that is thrown away after, with a layer of malai on top; the lassi shops on MI Road and near the station have sold it that way for decades. Kulfi — kesar, pista, malai — comes from the stalls in the evening, and in winter the kesar doodh, hot saffron milk, is sold from the big kadhais at the bazaar corners.

The kulfi-faluda and the ice-cream parlours of Raja Park and C-Scheme are the modern end of the same evening habit.

Where to find it

NameWhereWhat it is known for
Lassi shops on MI RoadMI RoadLassi in kulhads; the famous ones have queues.
Kulfi stallsBazaars and Raja ParkKesar and malai kulfi on the stick.
Kesar doodhBazaar corners, winterHot saffron milk from the kadhai.
Ice-cream parloursRaja Park, C-SchemeThe evening parlours.

Worth knowing

  • The kulhad is part of it; ask for it if you are given a glass.
  • Kesar doodh is a winter evening thing.
  • Lassi at ten in the morning is the Jaipur way.

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