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Dal Baati Churma

The dish of Rajasthan: baked wheat balls, five-lentil dal, and the sweet crumbled churma, with ghee poured over everything.

Dal baati churma is the plate that every Rajasthani meal comes back to. Baati are hard wheat balls baked in a wood fire or oven and broken open under a ladle of ghee; the dal is panchmel, five lentils cooked together with the Rajasthani spices; and churma is the same dough crumbled with ghee and sugar or jaggery. Together they are the festival food, the wedding food and the Sunday food.

In Jaipur it is on every traditional restaurant’s menu and at the heart of the thali. LMB in Johari Bazaar and the thali houses on MI Road serve it all day; Chokhi Dhani serves it on the floor under the stars.

Where to find it

NameWhereWhat it is known for
Lakshmi Misthan BhandarJohari BazaarDal baati churma and the Rajasthani thali.
Rajasthani thali restaurantsMI Road and C-SchemeSeveral houses serve unlimited thalis with baati.
Chokhi DhaniTonk RoadThe village resort’s thali, served on the floor.
Bajra and missi rotiWith the dalThe millet and gram breads served alongside.

Worth knowing

  • Ask for the baati to be broken and ghee poured at the table; that is the way.
  • Churma with jaggery is the village version; sugar is the city one.
  • It is heavy; lunch is the meal for it.

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