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The Rajasthani Thali

The whole kitchen on one plate: dal baati churma, gatte ki sabzi, ker sangri, kadhi, bajra roti, and the sweets.

The Rajasthani thali is how the state’s vegetarian cooking is best met in one sitting. The centre is dal baati churma; around it come gatte ki sabzi (gram-flour dumplings in curd gravy), ker sangri (the desert berry and bean, dried and cooked), panchkuta, kadhi, a seasonal vegetable, bajra and missi roti, papad, chutneys, buttermilk and a sweet. It is unlimited, and the serving does not stop until you say so.

Jaipur has several thali houses that serve nothing else, and the old sweet-house restaurants serve a version; Chokhi Dhani serves it on the floor with the show.

Where to find it

NameWhereWhat it is known for
Thali houses on MI Road and in C-SchemeCentral JaipurUnlimited Rajasthani thali, lunch and dinner.
Lakshmi Misthan BhandarJohari BazaarThali at the old sweet house.
Chokhi DhaniTonk RoadThe village-resort thali.
Gatte ki sabziOn every thaliGram-flour dumplings in a curd gravy.
Ker sangriOn every thaliThe desert berry and bean, the taste of western Rajasthan.

Worth knowing

  • Go hungry; it is unlimited and the servers are insistent.
  • Lunch is the better meal for a thali.
  • Most thali houses are pure vegetarian; some are Jain on request.

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